In the hair industry, there are few names as revered as Sam McKnight's. The legendary stylist has spent decades tending to the tresses of his famous friends – Kate, Naomi, Christy and co. – and creating countless looks for the world's biggest fashion publications and brands. So significant are his contributions, he was earlier this year awarded an MBE for his services to fashion and beauty.
"When I started in the mid-seventies, a session hairdresser was not really a career option," McKnight tells Bazaar. "I was warned that it was not lucrative with few prospects for advancement, so I now see that I was a pioneer!" Along the way, he's watched the "baby supermodels" such as Campbell and Moss grow, and he cites working with fashion's most decorated photographers, like Nick Knight and Irving Penn, as some of his career highlights.
Meanwhile, McKnight has also become a haircare entrepreneur, debuting his his own line in 2017 with four clever styling products to “cut time backstage by 20 minutes”. Now, many of us flock to his extended product range for the ease and luxury they provide. From a hairspray that delivers hold without the stiffness to an up-do mist that gives great grip, volume and texture (all scented by famed British perfumer Lyn Harris), Hair By Sam McKnight claims pride of place in our bathroom shelves.
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Of course, all the products are designed to enable runway-ready styles that work in real life. And, with the new docuseries The Super Models spotlighting legendary looks, while the new generation of supermodels continue to influence beauty trends far and wide, we've never been more invested in achieving swishy 'look-at-me' locks.
Here, the king of supermodel hair past and present shares his top rules for bouncy, polished hair with Bazaar. Pass the hairspray.
1.It’s all about volume
“The first thing that comes to my mind when we say ‘supermodel hair’ is that voluminous hair of the '80s and '90s. It’s the Cindy Crawford, all-American look,” McKnight tells Bazaar from his Notting Hill studio. “It’s the power that comes to mind.”
2. Less is more
While '90s supermodels are a reference point for this look, the modern-day interpretation of ‘supermodel hair’ is much-less ‘done’. “It’s great hair, but it’s not too set; we’re looking for a glossy finish,” he says. Less backcombing and a heightened focus on hair health is key to creating a more natural, lived-in feel that doesn’t scrimp on polish.
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3. Lightweight products are key
Science and technology in beauty products move at impressive speed, resulting in elegant textures that are far more refined and sensorial than those in years past. Case in point: McKnight’s oil and balm work beautifully as a finishing touch even on fine hair. “We created these with light formulations because people want a much more natural look even if their hair is set,” he explains. For example: “If I do a roller set, it's nice to put a little bit of nourishing balm or oil through it to bring it together, to de-fluff and de-frizz without your hair looking like there are products in it.”
4. Try some layers
“When I think of the supermodel look, you have to move away from heavy, one-length hair. You need a few layers,” says McKnight, who recently gave Jodie Comer her layered ‘do. According to him, the layers can be underneath or on top, or a semi-curtain, face-framing fringe; anything that almost lifts your hair away from your head as opposed to sitting flat against it. “It will give you volume without too much work.”
5. Style starts with healthy hair
Unless you’re the lucky few who can get away with a weekly wash, volume is best achieved with clean hair. A weekly mask is imperative for maintaining soft, hydrated locks, too.
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6. Make friends with mousse
The humble mousse has made a comeback in recent months, but for professional stylists everywhere, it never really left. His top trick? “Often, I won’t put it straight onto the hair, I'll put it on the brush when I'm blow drying so it goes into the hair as I blow-dry,” he explains. This way, you can ensure the product is evenly dispersed throughout the lengths.
7. Style your curls with oil
McKnight namechecks Campbell’s Tina Turner-esque shoot as one of his favourite looks to date. “We sewed three Afro wigs together. She was dressed in lamé, singing to the camera. Naomi does a great Tina Turner impression, she’s been doing that since she was 15!” For us mere mortals, McKnight recommends a good hair oil to prep bouncy curls. On wet or damp hair, use a wide-toothed comb to apply the oil, or, if you have tight curls, work it in with your fingers. “Then, I’ll lift and backcomb the roots a little and spray it with our Easy-Up Do Texture Spray because that will give you really big, voluminous, bouncy curls.”
8. Go easy with fine hair
And that enviable nonchalant-chic Moss hair? It's easier to achieve than it looks. “I don’t overdo it, because Kate has fine hair,”says McKnight. He’ll blow-dry her hair upside down if it’s damp before lightly running a curling iron through her strands but “only where necessary”. He explains: “I tend to keep the products to a minimum. I'll use Cool Girl Texture Spray, which I invented for her to mess her hair up anyway. And maybe just add a tiny bit of Happy Endings Nourishing Balm on the ends to bring it together.”
Armando Grillo
9. Invest in this classic hair tool
“Nothing beats hot rollers for volume,” McKnight says of the secret to bombshell waves. “Set your hair in hot rollers with a little bit of hairspray. Brush it out and you can't go wrong.” Don’t worry about getting the rollers perfectly placed, either. “There’s beauty when it's a bit messy. It makes it more modern.”
10. Upgrade your ponytail
In a style rut? Try playing with different ponytail placements. “High on top looks quite sporty, or go low in the back which is more evening and elegant,” explains McKnight. “Or you can go disco bunny with a side pony!” He’s also a fan of hair accessories, citing a black velvet bow as an easy go-to.
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